Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
